Rope Ratchet

I wanted to rig a single line of rope across the ceiling of my garage for a storage solution, but was concerned about getting the line tight enough to keep from sagging. Rather than tie up a come-along winch -- which requires a lot more hook up room and has a tendency to release quite hard -- I saw the Rope Ratchet and decided to give it a try; I'm glad I did. The contraption is basically a rope that's fed into and around a ratcheting wheel and bracket that holds the line and prevents backspin; you can release the line with a lever.

It's quite simple, but I haven't seen anything quite like it. I'm using one to hold up a 70-lbs. tackle bag 6 feet off the floor of my garage and another holding about 80 lbs. of plastic lures on a rope stretched across hooks against the ceiling of my garage. I'm using the 1/4-inch Rope Ratchet that's rated for a working load of 150 lbs., but there are different sizes for different needs: the 1/8-inch will hold 75 lbs. up, while the 1/2-inch will hold 500 lbs. After a number of months, mine are holding strong with no sign of failure.

-- Doug Mainor

How to Replace the Chain Tensioner on a Husqvarna 351 Chainsaw

The chain tensioner on a Husqvarna chainsaw controls how tight the chain is against the bar. Proper chain tension is needed to cut efficiently and safely. Without the correct chain tension your chain may get thrown easily from the bar, break or get pinched easily. Replacing the chain tensioner is necessary if the screw no longer holds the chain tight against the bar when cutting. Installing a new chain tensioner on your Husqvarna 351 isn't difficult and only requires about a half an hour of time to fix.

Instructions

 

 Step 1 Turn off the saw and release the chain brake. The chain brake is the plastic handle located on the topside of the saw's body, and is in between the bar and the throttle. With a gloved hand, spin the chain to ensure the chain brake is off.

Step 2
Use the wrench to loosen the bar nuts until they are finger tight. Use the flathead screwdriver to loosen the bar tensioner screw. This screw is located just beside the bar cover's two metal posts, and can be reached through the small, round hole in the cover's center. The tensioner screw controls the chain's tightness.

Step 3
 Finish loosening the bar nuts and remove the bar cover. Take off the bar and chain; set them aside in a safe place.

Step 4
Find the chain tensioner apparatus. This will be a flat metal piece located directly underneath the chain tensioner screw, which you removed in the earlier step by taking off the chain's bar cover. It will be in between the clutch housing at the rear and the chain's catchguard in the front.

Step 5
Use the screwdriver to unscrew the two screws that hold the chain tensioner's cover in place.

Step 6
Remove the outer plate and you will see a long bolt running in the same direction as the chainsaw's bar, which is connected to another piece that looks like a handgun. This is the chain adjuster tensioner apparatus.

Step 7
Unscrew these two parts and remove them from the engine housing. Look at the inner plate behind these two parts. If it is cracked or damaged, remove that as well.

Step 8

Replace the necessary parts from the new chain tensioner kit. Screw them back into the same place you found them. Replace the tensioner screw as well. Most likely this will solve your adjusting problems. If not, it is likely your clutch assembly or sprocket that needs to be replaced.

 

 

How to Buy a Chain Saw

Step 1

Consider the recipient's home. Are there woods to be trimmed or trees to be cut into logs?

Step 2

Decide whether a light or midweight chainsaw is better suited to your recipient. A lightweight saw (8-14 inches) is ideal for trimming branches and felling small trees. A midweight (14-18 inches) is recommended for cutting larger trees and logs. Larger (over 18 inches) saws are generally used by professionals.

Step 3

Look for safety features such as

Step 4

START FEATURES?

Step 5

Consider your price range. Expect to spend $100 to $400, depending on the size and features.

Should I Buy a Table Saw or a Mitre Saw?

Forming the decision of whether to buy a miter saw or a table saw goes beyond a personal preference. That decision for purchase should be based upon the usage of the tools and the future projects that are going to be performed. Understanding the differences of the two types of saws will go a long way in making that decision.

History
1. At one point in time all table saws were heavy, bulky and nowhere near the portable units of today. Table saws are primarily used to rip boards or plywood into a useful piece of material. The worktable, that supports the material, has undergone many changes along with the power capacity of the motor used for rotating the fixed blade. Today's table saws worktables are constructed from aluminum alloys that are stable in all temperatures. Old cast iron tables would rust in heavy humidity and warp in cold weather. Motor power has increased significantly in the fixed blade cutting device which allows for the ripping of thick boards and large pieces of plywood.
     
Significance

2. Miter saws were at one time all hand powered. The angle of the blade in very inexpensive units was designated by groves cut into a wooden box. The saw was a simple handsaw that cut the board or piece of trim at a single angled cut. These angles were predetermined by grooves cut into the sides of the wooden miter box. The angles were generally set at 30, 45 and 90 degrees. The precision of the cut on a piece of trim was poor at the very best.
    
 Function

3. Miter saws of today allow for a full range of single or compound angled cuts. These saws are also electric motor driven and have a built in blade stop brake for when the cut is completed. Some miter saws even employ the use of a laser light to precisely line the board cut up with the blade. This eliminates any sighting problems that may occur for complicated angled cutting.
     
Types

4. The table saw is useful for cutting large panels of plywood or making smaller boards from a wider piece of material. The miter saw can then be used for cutting perfect right-angled joints or complicated angles on the smaller boards.
     
Features

5. In the construction of home cabinets the table saw would be useful for cutting down to size large pieces of plywood that would form the sides of the cabinets. The miter saw can then be used for cutting to length the trim and door material for a precise fit. Both of these power saws work in concert, together, by performing two distinctly different tasks.
     
Considerations

6. Table saws are constructed to be run continuously for ripping, cutting, wood material. Miter saws are to be used intermittently, on and off, for cutting angles on the ends of trim and cabinet or furniture boards. The question should not be which type of saw to buy. But rather, what is the project you want to construct and what types of table saw and miter saw should you purchase to compliment the end product.
     
Benefits

7. The decision of what types of table saw and miter saw can be a bit daunting. Many home stores will allow you to try the saws and see which features best suit your needs. Below are two resources that can go a long way in helping you to decide just which types of these two distinctly different tools you will need for the home wood working workshop.

How to Replace Craftsman Tools

Step 1
Be aware that not all Craftsman tools come with their famous warranty. Notable exclusions are bench tools, battery operated and electric tools, as well as precision measuring tools. Call your local Sears store to determine Craftsman tool warranty coverage for your particular case.

Step 2
You can have Craftsman tools, covered under the warranty, replaced by returning them to any Sears store or outlet. It's not necessary to have proof of purchase, or to return them to the same location they were originally purchased. You can buy a covered Craftsman tool in California, accidentally damage it, and return it for replacement in Maine without issue. See our Resources section to find a Sears store near you.

Step 3
Replace your Craftsman tool by bringing or mailing the covered tool to Sears and making a request for replacement. You will need to provide some minor information, such as name, address and phone. Depending on the type of damage, size of store and inventory level, they can either exchange it on the spot, or forward it to another location to fulfill the warranty. If you want forwarding, you must wait for your replacement tool.

Step 4
Make a note of the date you dropped off the tool on your calendar. You can get replacements within days, but if you hear nothing for two weeks, call the store to inquire about the status. When the new tool is available, return to the store to pick it up, or request that the store mail the tool to your home. Depending on the individual store policy, you may incur a small shipping charge for this service.

Pivot Head Hex Wrenches

The head of these hex wrenches pivots, allowing you to get access into numerous tight places and achieve speedier running in for final tightening (with the same hex or via torque wrench). Unlike a standard hex that only gives you 90-degrees, the flex head can be quickly adjusted. You simply move the handle to the angle that works best in the situation then turn (it's like a tight, square drive U joint adapter; there is no screw to lock it). Often you can simply flip the handle for another turn without disengaging from the socket head. The short end or long end can be used as the driver. I start screws with the long end then simply flip the wrench for snugging down.

I bought mine after I saw a bicycle mechanic using one. I've used mine *hard* for bicycle maintenance for over a year with no appreciable wear (they're chrome-plated vanadium steel). While elegant looking, they have never failed to bust loose stuck bolts, especially stainless ones in aluminum or even steel threads. I gave a set to a Mechanical Engineer whose hobby is designing high-end racing recumbents for setting human powered vehicle records. He was also thrilled with them.

Swiss Army Victorinox CyberTool 29

I’ve tried a fair number of pocket knife and combination tools: Gerber, Leatherman, Victorinox, Wenger, and others. The quality and versatility of these tools are quite amazing. I own both versions of the previously reviewed Husky 8-in-1, which are excellent when you have a workspace or are able to carry them in a pack, but not so good to carry in your pocket. I used to work on servers but have been promoted to management, and now don’t do as much hands-on work as I once did, but still like to be prepared. For day-to-day use, I want something that fits easily into my pocket, has a small enough profile to work in confined spaces for light-duty computer repairs and other minor jobs. I’ve found the Swiss Army Victorinox CyberTool 29 to be the best compromise.


It has a nice long 5mm driver that uses four double-ended bits, including my favorite Phillips #2, two smaller Phillips bits, a straight bit, three Torx drivers (#8, #10, #15), and a 4mm hex bit. It also includes the classic straight-blade screwdriver, can opener, awl, two knife blades, corkscrew (yes, I use it fairly regularly!) and a tiny screwdriver ingenuously tucked in the corkscrew. I really like that the straight-blade screwdriver and Phillips driver are at opposite ends. Having the two screwdrivers open at the same time often makes the task go quicker.